Forel expedition
August 2025: Ilulissat to Narsaq
Glaciers are fascinating in so many ways. Covering larger or smaller areas of continents, they have been shaping Earth’s surface for most of its history. The landscape was already breathtaking from the plane on the way to Greenland. One glacier after another, with the most impressive one reaching the sea in Disko Bay, close to Ilulissat: Sermeq Kujalleq. But nothing tops what awaited us on board the research vessel Forel. Slowly, we cruised through icebergs of all shapes and sizes that calved into the sea (Photo 1). The mirror-still sea and the icebergs seemed to compete over who could shine the brightest.
Not much time could be spared for admiring the view, unfortunately. Soon after embarking, my colleague Amelia and I started collecting seawater samples. Using samples collected from several fjords, we investigate the biogeochemical cycles of nutrients and trace metals, and how they are impacted by climate change. River water, sediments and rocks provide additional information on the environments delivering water and sediment to the fjords.
Collecting seawater from the first few stations tested our improvisation skills. Everything that could go wrong did go wrong. Space was tight, time was limited, and whatever did not find its way on board on time, was simply unavailable. But what can you really do on a 28-metre sailing ship that has already left its rather remote harbour? While the options for solving problems were extremely limited, the creativity and support of the crew and science team members were quite the opposite. Thus, we managed to sample the first two stations in the best way possible. Immediately after, we transited south along the coast. The sunshine was accompanied by strong winds, the sails were up and we sailed towards the Kangerlussuaq Fjord. We spent the time planning the upcoming stations and enjoying the fresh air and breathtaking landscapes (Photo 2).
After sampling a few stations, our routine began to settle. Selecting sampling depths based on profiles of conductivity, temperature and density (CTD) of the water column, labelling and preparing sample bottles, taking fieldnotes, carrying Niskin bottles from deck to the lab, filtering, incubating, sub-sampling, acidifying – every task was executed in the most efficient way. Luckily, most days we had time to eat and sleep on a regular basis, also thanks to the crew, who encouraged everyone on board to come together for meals. On some days, sleep was sacrificed for efficient sampling, influenced by weather and ice conditions, but rewarded by the most stunning views from our workplace at the stern of the Forel (Photo 3).
Every day brought a new challenge. Some were easier to manage than others: moving around on board got easier with time, but attention was still required to avoid slipping or knocking your head as the ship moved. Others needed to be resolved strategically. There is too much ice to reach a sampling station – what now? How long can we wait for conditions to improve, and how far can we shift the station without compromising the science? And some challenges happened to solve themselves such as the measurement cylinder that fell overboard, only to drift back toward the ship an hour later, close enough to be recovered.
Collecting samples on land, i.e., river water, sediment and rocks, proved difficult to plan based on a simple map. Does the river still exist? Do tides, ice and weather conditions even allow us to go on land? And even more importantly, are we able to leave again after some time? Once an opportunity was in sight, we were on the dinghy within a few minutes. Not every spot was as easily accessible as it seemed from a distance. What first appeared to be a small creek cascading down the fjord’s slope turned out to be a sizable waterfall. Of course, that did not stop Amelia from filling our bottles from the dinghy, getting soaked by the icy water. On the way back to the Forel, we were rewarded by a fun slalom ride through the icebergs (Photo 4).
As we approached the last fjord for sampling, a wave of nostalgia hit us. Only two days left! After more than 20 days following our sampling routine, stopping felt almost impossible. By then, we had successfully passed the stage of extreme fatigue, where every muscle ached. Lifting yet another 15-kilogramme Niskin bottle seemed unimaginable, as did filtering another 200 ml through a modified caulking gun (Photo 5). But after having it done anyway and knowing it would soon be the last time, we turned into delirious bundles of energy with no intention of stopping. By the final station, every sample bottle was filled, leaving us no choice but to stop.
I would like to express my gratitude for the whole crew of the Forel for their fantastic support in all situations, their flexibility to adjust to everyday challenges, and great atmosphere on board. Special thanks to Lou, who saved our backs, kept all equipment in impeccable condition, and made the most amazing desserts.
Sylvie Bruggmann is a post-doctoral researcher at the Laboratory for Biogeochemical Oceanography Across Time (BOAT) at the University of Lausanne, Switzerland. Her field trip took place in summer 2025 with financial support from an SPI Forel Grant.